When the chance arose to swap my comfy slippers for camel trekking boots, I couldn't resist. As a frequent visitor to Marrakech (and someone who always has room for another tagine), I leapt at the opportunity to join Not In The Guidebooks for a whirlwind adventure through Morocco’s Atlas Mountains and the Sahara Desert.
This trip had it all: luxury glass igloos (okay, not really, but the tents were lush), camels (surprisingly charming travel companions) and landscapes so stunning they made me forget my usual aversion to hills. I even managed to squeeze in a dose of glamour at the Sofitel Palais Imperial before heading into the wild.
Here’s what my 5-night/ 6-day private tour included - starting from £1,245 per person:
Flights
A choice of standard, comfort or luxury accommodation
2 nights with breakfast in Marrakech
1 night, dinner and breakfast in Ait Ben Haddou
1 night, dinner and breakfast in Erg Chebbi Desert
1 night, dinner and breakfast in Ouarzazate
Private minibus with A/C and English-speaking driver/ guide
(Ethical) camel ride in the Merzouga Desert - or a 4x4 jeep alternative
Want to linger longer? I’d recommend adding a night at Todra Gorge and another night in the desert to truly soak it all in.
Rather than ramble on, I thought I’d let my video journal do most of the talking - each clip offers a little slice of Morocco’s magic, as experienced through my eyes (and occasionally my grumbling knees). From the hustle and bustle of Marrakech to the jaw-dropping silence of the Sahara, come along for the ride...
PS No camels - or Jo - were harmed in the making of this adventure! 😘 Morocco has laws in place to ensure that the camels are well looked after, and I witnessed the care conditions with my own (very critical) eyes. 👀 🐪
Sofitel Marrakech Palais Imperial
Before embarking on a three-day escapade to the Mergouza Desert with Not In The Guidebooks, I wanted to drop in on my dear friend Romayssa at Sofitel Palais Imperial for a pre-trek injection of glamour.
Given the central location, a short walk from Jemaa el Fna and the super hip Hivernage district, this oasis of Moroccan charm and calm is a balm for the soul.
It's rare to find a big brand hotel which reflects and embraces a country's culture and personality with such commitment.
Sofitel Palais Imperial has all the style and elegance of La Mamounia but without the eye-watering price tag and is a perfect base for a 3-night city break in the Red City.
Angsana Riad Dar Zaouia, Marrakech
It was almost time for stuff to get real and I was easing myself into local life gently with a night at Riad Dar Zaouia, a 10-minute, scooter-dodging stroll from Jemaa El Fna, Koutoubia Mosque and the bewildering sounds, smells and souks of the Medina.
Each of the six riads embodies the rich traditions of the medina, blending historical preservation with support for the local community. These serene havens offer a tranquil escape from the city's bustle, featuring open courtyards adorned with bubbling fountains and air infused with the delicate scent of roses.
Marrakech sightseeing
We spent the day visiting the souks of Marrakech’s new and old Medina and spent the evening doing a food tour in and around Jemaa el Fna.
I’m not usually squeamish when it comes to sampling the local delights but cold snails and extremely hot Khoudenjal tea were not for me…
Ouarzazate and Ben Ait Haddou
We departed for Ouarzazate, aka Moroccan Hollywood, around three hours’ drive from Marrakech through Tizi N’Tichka, the winding mountain pass that hugs the cliffs and affords some of the awe-inspiring views in the country.
Ouarzazate has been the backdrop for epic movies like Gladiator and Game of Thrones, with the main attraction being Ait Ben Haddou, a seriously impressive fortress that’s also a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Against all odds (my reluctance to walk up hill!), I climbed up to the top of the Kasbah and soaked in the history whilst marvelling at the architecture.
Riad Ksar Ighnda, Ouarzazate
Ksar = "fortified village" in Berber
Ighnda = "he slept here" in Berber
Perched where the desert meets the High Atlas foothills, Ksar Ighnda sits in a Berber village along the old Timbuktu caravan route. Once an ancient kasbah, it’s now a beautifully restored 80-room riad that manages to feel both exclusive and deeply personal. Oh, and the silence? Absolutely magical. I vow to return with my husband… or my bestie. Either way, just the two of us!
Todra Gorge
After breakfast, we departed Ben Ait Haddou for Todra Gorge. This place is all about dramatic cliffs, where the Dades and Todra rivers got together and decided to carve out limestone canyons with 300-meter-high walls. No big deal, right? You’ll feel tiny in the best way as you take in the rushing waters and sunlight sparkling off the crystal-clear drops that splash through the gorge. It’s like nature’s own light show, minus the rave music.
Camel trekking across the Sahara Desert
We continued our journey to the edge of the desert, stopping for some quick snaps of the oasis, before continuing by 4 x 4 to meet our camels… at speed!
We mounted our trusty camels and trekked into the Sahara. The dunes of Erg Chebbi in Merzouga, golden and sculpted, made for the most perfect backdrop for a jaw-dropping sunset arrival into our traditional Berber camp.
Madu Luxury Camp by night
As the day wound down, we arrived at Madu Luxury Camp nestled in the dunes. The luxury tents of Madu are a sight to behold in themselves. Complete and utter comfort in the middle of nowhere. We wanted for nothing. We tucked into a delicious Moroccan dinner while the hypnotic beats of desert drums set the mood and ended the night around a campfire, soaking in the warmth and bonhomie of our Berber hosts.
Madu Luxury Camp by day
The day kicked off with a sunrise that made me wonder if I was actually awake! The Sahara put on quite the show, with the sky lighting up in soft pinks, oranges and golds — basically, the kind of sunrise that almost made you forget how early it was. After soaking it all in, we slid down the dunes back to camp. A hearty breakfast and a well-deserved shower awaited.
This trip was an absolute cracker - huge thanks to Not In The Guidebooks for creating such an authentic, immersive adventure (and for tolerating my questionable camel-riding skills!). Whether it’s dune-surfing at sunrise, medina madness or tucking into tagines under a starlit sky, Morocco has so much to offer.
If this has inspired you, give me a shout - I’d love to help you create your own tailor-made Moroccan escapade!